iPhone End Call stuck issue

This is one of those problems that seems to have endless reports, but no clear solution. My phone is an iPhone 4S 64GB running iOS 5.0.1. My carrier is Optus in Australia.

Other problems that occur when the stuck End Call screen issue arises seem to be (for me anyway):

  • No incoming SMS
  • Can’t call out
  • People calling in hear a your number dialling, but your phone does not ring.

I will run through my troubleshooting steps.

Some people believe it is a carrier issue, and you perform a carrier update if one exists. To do so, go to the About screen on the iPhone. Provided you have some sort of data connection, if there is a carrier update available, a prompt will pop up asking you to update. This did not solve my problem after updating.

It can be an iOS issue, but again I am running the latest. You can always upgrade and see if it sorts your issue.

It can reportedly be an upgrade issue, where you have kept the same settings from upgrading phones (ie. you have migrated from a 3GS to 4 then to a 4S). This was not applicable in my case, as I started fresh. You can try to setup your phone from scratch or factory reset. I’m skeptical of this fix, because a factory reset seems to fix everything, but the problem will probably come back due to an underlying issue.

The fix for me was to turn on mobile data, and then turn it off again. I leave mobile data off at all times, because I like to control when and how my data is used. There seems to be a bug with iOS when the phone runs for prolonged amounts of time with no data capability.

Delete/Remote Blackberry Messenger

You’ll find you can’t do this via Blackberry App World anymore. You use to be able to install a newer version when it came out, and then delete the program entirely via App World. This option has since been disabled.

To delete Blackberry Messenger, go to Options – Device – Application Management – Choose Blackberry Messenger – then choose Delete. It should ask for a reboot when done.

Works on OS6.

How to wake up in style

Just a funny project…

You can buy these beautiful DAB+ radios these days, but they come with $2 builtin speakers ruining the whole experience. So why not build the ultimate alarm clock buy pairing it up with a $500 bookshelf speaker?

Admittedly, the bookshelf I am using is just a spare.

Two parts used. Pure Siesta DAB+ alarm clock and a VAF bookshelf speaker. Used the built in alarm clock amp which isn’t too bad (and to keep it simple). Open up the alarm clock, wire up some speaker wire to connect externally to the bookshelf speaker. Connect…. and enjoy.

HTC Touch Diamond LCD and Digitizer replacement Guide (HOW TO)

Before you proceed, please note that I cannot be accountable/liable for any damage caused to your phone. This is only a guide! 

I will mention that I am only going through the steps once you have disassembled the phone according to the various guides available on the Internet.Namely, the official HTC service manual or this Russian site here:http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/razbor-htc-touch-diamond/

There are plenty of guides on the net on how to disassemble the HTC Diamond, but little about replacing the LCD/Digitizer (hence my write up here!). 

I apologise that I have not taken pictures at every stage of this process, but I will attempt to explain everything in as much detail as possible. Some pictures I have managed to take are a little blurry, but hopefully you get the drift. 

Getting Started

Once you have managed to dismantle the phone to this point, please follow on with this article. At this point, the screen is still glued to the chassis (very tightly!).

1. Dismantle to basic chassis

To proceed, you will need to pry off the screen. People have recommended using credit cards, which will do the trick nicely once you have managed to find an opening to leverage from. Hopefully, if you have bought your replacement tool they have given you some sort of plastic tool to lever with. The tool on the left works best.

Tools needed

At this point, you will pretty much have to use the lever and a credit card to pry the glue loose. If done successfully, you will have something that looks like this.

Seperated parts

Now at this point, you could try and separate the LCD from the digitizer if you only bought one or the other. I suggest that you replace both the LCD and digitizer as there is a high chance that you will not be able to separate them without breaking one or the other. This is just my opinion but there have been people who have successfully done this. If you manage to separate them both, you’ll need to desolder the connection between the LCD and digitizer (4 contact points on a ribbon cable – can be seen on the left in the image below).

The image below shows the silver foil and plastic insulation removed from the rear of the LCD/digitizer unit. Remember the order in which you peeled off the insulating tape and the silver foil! I will explain the problem I had a little later.

Back of LCD

For me, I bought a new LCD and digitizer separately, so I had to solder the 4 contacts on the left myself (notice the arrow). This wasn’t too hard to do if you have ever soldered stuff before. Just make sure there is no shorts between the contacts. To avoid this work, you should buy the LCD/digitizer preassembled as one unit.Once you have put together the LCD and digitizer, you will need to remove any of the scratch protective plastic layers off them. Put them together as they’re suppose to be and then stick them back into the chassis. You will need some sort of glue to make the digitizer stick to the chassis. When I pulled mine apart, a lot of the glue stayed on the chassis so I simply popped the digitizer back in and pressed firmly to make it stick. This is not recommended though, as a drop of the phone will cause the digitizer to fall out!Assuming you have figured out some way to make the digitizer stick to the chassis, you’ll notice that the LCD screen also needs to be stuck to the digitizer in some manner. The way I achieved this was to tape the LCD to the chassis with thin strips of electric tape. This stopped the LCD from moving around. 

Putting it all back together

You will need make all the ribbon stick to the back of the LCD for tidyness (as above). To do so, I peeled off the double-sided tape from my faulty unit and re-used it.

When putting the silver shielding tape back on, please remember that it is conductive and can cause shorts. I spent ages wondering why my digitizer wouldn’t work and finally realised I forgot to put the yellow insulating tape back on before I put the silver shielding tape back over the ribbon with the 4 contacts that I had to solder (see picture below)!

Start assembling

When you are putting it back together, there is a point where there are 2 sets of ribbon cable that need to make contact with a floating circuit board that sits on top. These two contacts need to be secured properly, and the best way to do it is to view it from side on and use a thin flat head screw driver to firmly press in those contacts. The image below shows the side on view I’m talking about.

Assembly side on view

The two parts I am referring to are these:

The two parts

When putting it back together, follow the service manuals or just remember what you pulled apart.

I suggest that before you put everything back together entirely, that you slip the battery in and give it a quick test at this point.

Quick test at this point

With any luck, the phone turns on, the LCD screen lights up, and the digitizer works! I hope this article helps some people out there who are wondering how to change that screen.

All done!